How to Plant Grass After Construction


Despite the fact that new construction may leave a lawn looking everything but ideal, including barren, rutted, and cluttered with building debris, your new house may seem picture perfect when the builders depart, but your lawn may look anything but perfect. The earth is left in a compacted state and in a bad condition after construction. The topsoil is often mixed with subsoil of lower grade that was dug during the foundation’s construction, or the topsoil is fully removed. When it comes to successfully planting grass after construction has been completed in the San Francisco region, the keys to success are proper site preparation and selecting the appropriate grass mix for your new lawn.

  1. Clear the area of any and all debris left behind from the construction. Both man-made waste, such as cast-off bricks or dropped nails, and natural things, such as loosened tree roots or huge boulders, have the potential to pose dangers or to interfere with the formation of root systems in a lawn that has just been seeded.

  2. If there is no dirt present in the area you want to seed, spread a layer of topsoil measuring between 6 and 8 inches over the surface of the region. If there was digging involved in the building of your home, the builders may have taken and stored the topsoil from the site. When this occurs, the dirt may be moved about the site or placed in specified spots, such as when repairing tyre depressions in the lawn, for example. Without topsoil, grass and other plants will not be able to grow to their full potential.

  3. Combine the topsoil with the dirt that is underneath it. The simple act of spreading topsoil over existing soil creates a layering effect, which has the potential to prevent water and plant roots from accessing soil deeper than the topsoil.

  4. Using a garden rake with a bow-shaped head, move the dirt away from the house while breaking up any clumps and eliminating any more stones or roots that you come across along the way. The soil should slope away from the house at a rate of at least 1 foot for every 50 feet to encourage good drainage and prevent moisture problems in your new home, and at a rate of at most 1 foot for every 15 feet to prevent topsoil and seed from sliding out into the street or onto neighbouring properties. This will ensure that your new home has the best possible drainage and moisture control.

  5. Starter fertiliser should be loaded into a drop spreader. Because it stimulates the development of new roots, phosphorus should be included in a starting fertiliser at a greater concentration than either nitrogen or potassium, which are also present in the product. In the case of fertiliser, the product will be labelled with a set of three numbers that indicate the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — in that specific sequence — that the fertiliser contains. For the chemical identification, search for fertiliser that has a larger centre number, since this indicates a greater phosphorus concentration. This number is often referred to as an NPK number. The Integrated Pest Management programme at the University of California, Davis suggests applying a mixture of 5-10-5 or 5-10-20 at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 10-20-10 at a rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Adjust the dial on your drop spreader to the number of pounds that corresponds to the kind of fertiliser that you are applying.

  6. As you finish up smoothing out the area, use a grading rake to work the fertiliser into the soil to a depth of between two and four inches. As you finish the final grading, knock down any ridges that you find and fill in any dips that you find.

  7. The location should be well hydrated, and then left alone for at least a week to enable for the soil to settle.

  8. Fill the drop spreader with grass seed that is suited to the circumstances of your yard, whether it receives sun or shade. Mixes are available. In the Bay Area, where the temperature drops to an average of 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the year, the best kind of grass to grow is one that thrives in cooler climates. If the temperature drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, cool-weather grass will not change colour, while warm-weather grass may begin to turn brown between the temperatures of 50 and 60 degrees. Both Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue operate very well in full sun and only fairly well in partial shade. When you want to cover barren land fast, such as when you are restoring the yard after a project to create a pool, establishing a grass seed mixture that has a substantial proportion of perennial ryegrass is the most effective way to do it.

  9. Spread half of the seed throughout the yard using a spreader and spreading it in rows across the breadth of the yard at a pace that is adequate for the kind of seed you choose. For instance, the application rate for perennial ryegrass is between 6 and 9 pounds for per 1,000 square feet of turf. After you have refilled the spreader, proceed to move it in the other way over the same area, working in rows down the length of the yard. Rake over the seed in such a way that it is covered to a depth of 1/8 of an inch.

  10. The area should be watered until a depth of one to two inches deep reveals damp soil. Keep the soil wet to this level by watering it gently but often until the seed germinates, which should take about two weeks for most grasses but may take a little bit longer for Kentucky bluegrass. As the seedlings get established, water them every other day. When the weather permits, reduce the frequency of your watering to once or twice a week.

    Things You Will Need

    • Topsoil

    • Garden tiller

    • Bow rake

    • Starter fertilizer

    • Drop spreader

    • Cool-season grass seed


    Even though the optimal time to seed new grass in the Bay Area is from September to October or from March to April, construction may be finished at any point throughout the year, and new grass can be planted at any time.

    In order to calculate the appropriate quantity of seed, fertiliser, and soil amendments to buy, you need first determine the size of your lawn by consulting the property survey.

    During the first season after new lawns have been created, foot traffic should be kept to a minimum.

    It may be up to two months before you mow your grass for the first time.